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Sleeve alterations?

Author: E.E.
Date: 05-05-07 08:00

I have to alter a shirt for work. We are all supposed to wear them, but the women's style has very short, tight, tapered sleeves. They are uncomfortable. My manager gave me another shirt to cut up so that I can cut new sleeves and make them longer and not so tapered. Here's the problem/concern-the shape of the sleeve. I removed the old sleeve and was going to use it as a pattern to make my alterations from. The arc of the sleeve is very flat and there is no 'scoop' shape at the underarm. I've noticed that most of the time, the underarm scoop shape of the sleeve is similar to the scoop shape of the underarm area of the shirt front and back. (Hope this makes sense.) I'm wondering if this is part of the reason that the original sleeves are so uncomfortable and tight? Should I re-shape the sleeves? What do you suggest? The shirt is a traditionally styled collared shirt with topstitching.

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Re: Sleeve alterations?

Author: Cajole
Date: 05-05-07 10:33

If shirt fits other than sleeve, then you may want to cut/sew in new ones. Otherwise a gusset (diamond shape) can add some comfort. Or start the guesset a few inches below the sleeve to shirt connecting seam with point and add straight the extra to the sleeve hem.

Use the sleeve that you took from the shirt as a pattern for the connecting seam, if it came off the shirt it will go back.
Would probably heavily starch the pattern sleeve or trace it onto paper or other pattern material.
Find the center of the lower edge and fold to top of sleeve. Slit the pattern along the fold, but do not cut past the seem line, and move apart until you have the necessary fit. This will cause a dip or lengthening of the sleeve in the center. Which may be folded out (dart shape) along the cut slit.
If you don't like the taper to the sleeve, the sleeve seam can be made straight from the underarm seam at which time you could lengthen the sleeve.

Personally, I've never been able to make anything for myself without changing the sleeves due to upper arms. Did find a jacket pattern that has 2 part sleeves, that I cut the sleeves a couple of sizes larger than jacket (multisize pattern) Then when setting in sleeve ease and stretch until fits with no puckers. Doesn't necesarrily fit within the allowed seam allowance, but when finished don't have sleeves that are uncomfortable. Use serger to finish seam edges to neaten inside.

Cajole

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Re: Sleeve alterations?

Author: mizlilly
Date: 05-05-07 11:24

Lots of great info Cajole! If you need more help check out the latest threads. It has a great article on sleeves:
http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/th_currentissue.asp

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Re: Sleeve alterations?

Author: Cajole
Date: 05-06-07 14:42

Thanks, I like the help in threads mag. Not sure why I can't keep the subscription going.

Cajole

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Re: Sleeve alterations?

Author: E.E.
Date: 05-06-07 16:53

Thanks for the suggestions. The sleeves taper dramatically at the hem and that is where the main problem is. They are too short for heavy upper arms, but that isn't the main issue. I removed the sleeves and made a pattern from them and then recut some sleeves with less of a taper. The sleeves fit OK, but I found that I would have re-shaped them even more for a better fit. Unfortunately, the fabric of the extra shirt that I cut the sleeves from was a different dye lot from the other shirts. Hope no one notices. I think that if I do this to the other work shirts I will add height at the sleeve cap and scoop the sleeve a bit at the underarms. It isn't a very nicely shaped sleeve.

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Re: Sleeve alterations?

Author: Mari
Date: 05-10-07 21:13

You might be able to go up a size or two and "remake" the shirt easier than trying to borrow fabric from other shirts. I have read somewhere online of women remaking tee shirts for a nicer fit(removing and recutting the sleeve and arm)- maybe that would work here.

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Re: Sleeve alterations?

Author: E.E.
Date: 05-11-07 15:04

I could not really remake them. They are traditionally styled shirts purchased by my employer.

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Re: Sleeve alterations?

Author: Fairy Godmother
Date: 05-11-07 18:47

E.E.,

I think when she says "remake," she's really talking about having a big enough sleeve to cut it down to a set in sleeve with a higher cap. Of course, then, you'd have to cut down a lot of the rest of the shirt, too...

Regards,
The Fairy Godmother

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Re: Sleeve alterations?

Author: E.E.
Date: 05-14-07 13:38

What I did was to take another shirt and cut two new sleeves out of the back of it. By taking the seams and hems completely out of the back of the shirt to be sacrificed, I was able to get enough fabric to cut two new sleeves. The "sacrificed" shirt was one that didnt' fit anyone (too small).

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