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ANOTHER issue with this blouse. Help please?

 
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ANOTHER issue with this blouse. Help please? - 11/25/2016 11:34:00 AM   
Linda S.

 

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So, I figured out how to make the blouse fit by adding an inch
to both front pieces on the edge where it buttons. Problem solved...
but no. I can NOT find my collar pattern piece grrrrrrr! LOL!

Apparantly, when I started cutting out this pattern (a year or so ago,
then added it to the UFO pile), I must have been thinking of using the
"magic collar" technique. Nancy Zieman and Louise Cutting promote
this collar. One re-drafts the collar pattern piece....very cool idea,
and by following their directions we can eliminate a ton of bulk.

I see I re-drafted the collar pattern piece so I could use this technique,
but now can't find the original dog gone collar pattern piece. Now I
am forced to use the "magic collar", which I've not done before.

The thing is, I need to add 2 inches to the pattern piece, so the collar
will fit on the neckline which now has 2 inches added. Same with the
collar stand, which is no biggie. But where do I add the 2 inches to
this magic collar? I'm thinking I add it to the back where it's cut on
a fold. (so just add one inch, since the fabric is cut folded).

Do you think this is where I need to add the extra 2 inches? At the
fold when cutting out the collar? I'm not much for altering patterns.
Other than my usual petiting and adjustment for narrow shoulders,
I use patterns AS IS lol!!!
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RE: ANOTHER issue with this blouse. Help please? - 11/25/2016 11:39:52 AM   
Linda S.

 

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Joined: 2/2/2011
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Does anyone here use the "magic collar"?????

I have it explained in some of Nancy Zieman books, and it was also featured in Threads
Magazine, May 2013 issue 166, pg. 43. I said I've never used it before, but rather think
I have....a loooooong time ago, too long to remember anything about it. This is actually
not a new technique, just revived.

(in reply to Linda S.)
Post #: 2
RE: ANOTHER issue with this blouse. Help please? - 11/26/2016 12:47:50 PM   
caaguirre

 

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I think there's something online showing how to do this, maybe one of Nancy's tutorials. It seems like you should add extra to what will be the collar on the bodice front but that's just a guess, I haven't done this yet myself but intend to when I sew that type of collar again.

http://www.nancysnotions.com/text/pdf/express-collar.pdf Try this link.

_____________________________

Happy Sewing, Carol

(in reply to Linda S.)
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RE: ANOTHER issue with this blouse. Help please? - 11/26/2016 3:02:39 PM   
Linda S.

 

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Joined: 2/2/2011
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Thank you Carol, and you're exactly right. I did have to add to both the collar stand and the collar,
so they would fit this larger neckline. Thank goodness I made a muslin of the collar first, because
only adding 2 inches to the back was not enough. I still don't understand it, and for the life of me
can't reason why....but I also had to add to the back seam allowance where the collar gets sewn
together before stitching and turning it into a collar.

I'm glad I was forced to use this new technique though, and really do love the results. It isn't hard
at all once I've done it.

The fabric I'm using is corduroy, and this collar is perfect for that because it reduces bulk. It's hard
to get a nice collar with pretty points, using the traditional method.....we end up with some lumps
no matter how much trimming we do.

I'm also using Nancy's (also David Coffin) suggestion for a different way to attach the collar stand.
That's where bulk really builds up using bulky fabric, but not with this technique. And the collar
ends up exactly where we want it. Again, not difficult at all....just different. I'm going to be using
this for my husband's flannel and heavy winter shirts too.

(in reply to caaguirre)
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RE: ANOTHER issue with this blouse. Help please? - 11/26/2016 7:40:41 PM   
caaguirre

 

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Good job! I wouldn't have expected that to be the place for the add either. Glad it worked out for you. Talk to me about attaching the collar stand, is it the topstitching method? I don't think I know about this one and it would be handy since I'm going to make a couple of flannel shirts soon.

_____________________________

Happy Sewing, Carol

(in reply to Linda S.)
Post #: 5
RE: ANOTHER issue with this blouse. Help please? - 11/27/2016 11:41:36 AM   
Linda S.

 

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Joined: 2/2/2011
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Carol, I've tried to find a tutorial on how Nancy Zieman does this, but so far no luck.
Do you happen to have her little book, 'The Busy Woman's Sewing Book'? This good
way to attach a collar stand (and her magic collar too) are in this little book. If you
don't already have it, this may be THE best sewing book I've ever seen. It is chock
full of good tips....no filler in this book! And it's a small book, as I said. It's older,
but just as useful today.

This is one of those super simple things that is harder to describe than to execute.
But here goes....You don't sew the band together at all before attaching to the neck
edge.

Nancy begins by saying that since the neck edge of the collar band has an outward
curve and the neck edge of the blouse has an inward curve, it's easier to sew the
two contrary shapes together if you use a 1/4 inch seam. So, trim 3/8 inch from
the neck edge of the front, back, and collar band.

Place a small nip on the top of the collar stand, at the dot (where it starts to curve
down on the front, leading edge).

She cuts her fusible interfacing to exactly the size of the band, with the seam
allowance completely removed (from interfacing). She then uses the interfacing
as a stitching guide too. (in other words, your interfacing will be the exact same
size as the finished collar stand).

Next, sew the collar band onto the neck edge. Sandwich the collar band on each
side of the neckline. Sew the bands to the garment along the neckline seam
with a 1/4 inch seam.

You will need to roll up the shirt front into a cone shape until the fabric is rolled
out of the way, when you start to sew the curved front part. (This makes perfect
sense when you do it, otherwise you'd catch the shirt in the stitching).

After the shirt fronts are rolled out of the way, the collar stands meet right sides
together. Sew the curve of the collar stand following the interfacing edge. STOP
at the nip.

Then turn the collar band to the right side and check for accuracy (to see if you
got a nice little curve you like). If it looks good, turn wrong side out again and
restitch the curve with short stitch length.

Now you can trim that little curved area on the leading edge, really close to
remove the bulk that normally causes a big lump there. Lump gone! Perfect
collar band attached : ).

Clear as mud? I hope not lol! And I hope Nancy will forgive me for partially
copying word for word her instructions out of her book. Hope you can get
this book....it's a real winner.

Others use this technique. David Coffin for one, in his excellent book called
'Shirtmaking'.



< Message edited by Linda S. -- 11/27/2016 11:49:48 AM >

(in reply to caaguirre)
Post #: 6
RE: ANOTHER issue with this blouse. Help please? - 11/27/2016 12:07:24 PM   
Linda S.

 

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I stand (pun intended ; ) corrected. David Coffin's technique is a little different than
Nancy's and has more steps. The one thing I like about Coffin's technique, is he
suggests making a template for stitching the curved area of the collar stand. Makes
sense. This way you get the exact same curve on both ends of the collar stand.

(in reply to Linda S.)
Post #: 7
RE: ANOTHER issue with this blouse. Help please? - 11/27/2016 1:50:46 PM   
caaguirre

 

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Thank you so much for going to the trouble of writing Nancy's instructions. Wouldn't you know it, I've had The Busy Woman's Sewing Book for a hundred years (also the Fitting Book) so maybe I better just reread what I've already got on my bookshelf. I did think that collar technique came after those books were published though. I agree Nancy's books are timeless even for experienced sewers. Thanks again, I Googled David Coffin's technique and found a blog where she describes it with lots of photos. so I feel ready to tackle those shirt collars myself.

_____________________________

Happy Sewing, Carol

(in reply to Linda S.)
Post #: 8
RE: ANOTHER issue with this blouse. Help please? - 11/28/2016 2:20:11 PM   
Linda S.

 

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Joined: 2/2/2011
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You're very welcome Carol. I had that little book of Nancy's sitting among my other sewing
books for years before looking at it. It's so small, I figured there wouldn't be much there....
boy was I wrong! It's worth reading just to get instructions for how to do a nice collar stand and
collar.

And for men's shirts, or ones made out of slightly heavier fabric, these techniques are sure
helpful. I'm using corduroy now, and there would have been an unavoidable lump in the
stand and at the collar points if I used traditional methods with this heavy fabirc. I love this
collar and stand technique, and doubt I'll ever go back to the other way. It makes me wonder
why pattern companies hold on to some techniques when clearly there are better ways. Happy
sewing to you!

(in reply to caaguirre)
Post #: 9
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