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Reducing Sleeve Fullness

 
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Reducing Sleeve Fullness - 11/1/2011 10:51:02 AM   
gaylefranklin

 

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I am making a velveteen dress using the CC Lee pattern, size 2. I am using the sleeve pattern from CC English Smocking book, but I think they need a little of the fullness removed to accomodate the thicker velveteen. But, I don't know exactly how to go about this. I have seen diagrams on reducing the sleeve cap, but they include re-doing the armseye as well. Do I need to do that if I only want to take out some of the gathering allowance? I still want the puffy little sleeve, just not as much fabric. Thanks!
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RE: Reducing Sleeve Fullness - 11/1/2011 11:14:24 AM   
Luzenia

 

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I am not sure if this is the correct way to do this but I have folded a small pleat in the pattern at the shoulder seam area where the sleeve head is and then adjusted the gathers to fit the armseye. The other thing I have done is use the sleeve pattern from a different pattern that was not a full as the original pattern but it fit the armseye without any adjustments.

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RE: Reducing Sleeve Fullness - 11/1/2011 11:20:08 AM   
vwren


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Taking a little fullness out of a gathered sleeve cap between the notches should not affect the armscye at all. You could take a few small darts in the sleeve pattern across the area to be reduced, and re-draw the curve to be smooth, and also possibly lower the height of the curve at the top of the sleeve a tiny bit. (I'm not sure if there is a scientific way to determine exactly how much to remove--I've always just guessed.)

< Message edited by vwren -- 11/1/2011 11:22:56 AM >

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RE: Reducing Sleeve Fullness - 11/1/2011 3:25:59 PM   
gaylefranklin

 

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Thanks for the help. I did change the sleeve pattern from "Lee" to "English Smocking" because the ES sleeve was less "pouffy" but I know that I will need to reduce that a little because of the thickness of the velveteen. I am glad that I was correct in thinking that I could reduce the sleeve cap a little withouth re-doing the entire sleeve opening.

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RE: Reducing Sleeve Fullness - 11/2/2011 8:47:36 AM   
ClaireM

 

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Can I make a suggestion?

First, cut a sample of your velvet 10" (25cm) long. Gather it with the method you're going to use and pull it up to the finished puffiness you desire. Let's say it makes it 7" long. So that would means for every finished distance of 7", you need 10" of fabric. Ratio is 7:10. The inverse of that is 1.43 (10 divided by 7 or non-gathered divided by gathered)

Now, measure the front and back pattern along the arm scye seam line between the notches. Don't forget to exclude the shoulder seam allowances. Get an exact number. Let's say it's 20cm (or 8" for you non metric folk ;))

Multiply that combined length by your inverse - 8" x 1.43 = 11.44"


Now, measure the original sleeve pattern along the seam line between the notches. Let's give it a measurement of 35cm (14"). Subtract 11.44 from 14" and you're left with 2.56" (2 1/2" is close enough). That's the amount you need to remove from the sleeve between the notches to get the right amount of gather in your modified sleeve cap.

Clear as mud? Ain't math grand :)

Claire





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RE: Reducing Sleeve Fullness - 11/2/2011 9:43:55 AM   
Grammy to 5


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Claire, I wish you could have seen my jaw drop while reading your post! :) I am amazed!

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RE: Reducing Sleeve Fullness - 11/2/2011 10:53:49 AM   
KathyD

 

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Great description Claire! Math was never my forte, but your description makes perfect sense to me.

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RE: Reducing Sleeve Fullness - 11/2/2011 3:41:14 PM   
gaylefranklin

 

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Claire, I think we are all in awe I carried a pretty good GPA in math during my undergrad studies, but it was by sheer determination. Like KathyD, math is definitely not my forte. This is amazing and certainly something I will use and keep in my sewing info folder. Thanks!

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RE: Reducing Sleeve Fullness - 11/2/2011 10:20:05 PM   
ClaireM

 

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Gosh, I'm blushing, ladies. But I'm glad you find it useful!

Claire

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RE: Reducing Sleeve Fullness - 11/2/2011 11:59:07 PM   
SewingGrammie

 

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LOL! Wow, that is amazining! I have taught math to 4 children all the way through Algebra 2, but when I reduce the fullness of a puffy sleeve I do it how Luzenia suggested, by either making the pleat in the pattern, or using a different sleeve pattern. I didn't know there was a formula to do this. What fun, and I am sure way more accurate. I'll have to try it sometime to see if I can make it work.

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RE: Reducing Sleeve Fullness - 11/3/2011 11:26:20 PM   
mizlilly


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Just brilliant Claire! Many thanks for sharing.

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